青城天下幽 岷江水分流 都青线上的探秘之旅
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拜水都江堰•问道青城山！去四川，“都青”黄金线是游客的必选之地：成都出发仅68公里就可抵达旅游黄金线路青城山、都江堰，两个著名景点相距仅16公里左右，成都出发当天就可游玩这两个著名景点。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/e851904f1fb24a449ad76d42c05bdeaa~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=2Osl2%2FQUG7Xmqimi8cJT70llu30%3D
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青城山位于成都市都江堰市西南，东距成都市区68千米，处于都江堰水利工程西南10千米处。最高峰老君阁海拔1260米，分为前山和后山，群峰环绕起伏、林木葱茏幽翠，享有“青城天下幽”的美誉。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/9da32daa74bc4592a54064191184fb06~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=1pLAK9WteDPzMptOpJvw1FN8UQ8%3D
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这里是全真龙门派圣地，十大洞天之一，中国四大道教名山之一，五大仙山之一，成都十景之一。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/9523c77c0b5046b59accd83acf2e8cc5~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=c7WeE5Iv33whpskIbEsGuoTwrzo%3D
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36峰、72洞、108处胜景的青城山，处在亚热带湿润季风气候区，峰峦叠嶂，林木青翠，终年常绿，诸峰环绕，壮如城郭，故名青城，意为青色的城。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/12b5356c9b544d61815dd3d931e1e13b~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=bwL0imDtbjwTw6irnyygzwAk9jE%3D
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青城山整年林木青翠，四季常青，诸峰环峙，状若城廓，故名青城山。丹梯千级，曲径通幽，幽静的天师洞和圆明宫是青城山的一大特色。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/df5744b40a8349f59a5147bdf3f2283a~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=MquOPkltRXtq6dgrJSx6oQ6RYqc%3D
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从青城山走出山门，友人们简单在景区外吃了碗又辣又麻的担担面、红油抄手后，就又上车直奔都江堰而去。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/22f1ac51b3914671ac47c277ba380e6f~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=GZxjeHP7sXE%2FYaGQ%2FkNsCTirnWo%3D
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都江堰是举世公认的古代水利工程，是全世界迄今为止，年代最久、唯一留存、以无坝引水为特征的古代水利工程。它主要由三大主体工程构成，鱼嘴、宝瓶口、飞沙堰。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/89cf1c4d373d454282f52e071007af2f~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=AH2YPMKcSsLgsu%2Foa%2BWJtNH%2BwAk%3D
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古代岷江时常泛滥成灾，战国秦昭王时蜀郡守李冰及其子率众开凿都江堰，调控江水，使整个成都平原既得灌溉、舟楫之利，又免水患、干旱之苦。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/acbc8f9a56ef40ac9039dbd1c2859198~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=RVvBOXnIGKamZkAd8myeKMAGmTg%3D
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当年李冰来到蜀地，勘测后即决定凿山引水。当时火药还没有发明出来，他就组织劳工对岩石火烧水浇，制造出温差，利用热胀冷缩原理使其爆裂。终于在玉垒山凿出了一个长80米宽20米的山口，取名叫“宝瓶口”https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/2890e8fbb7b7431ba9a42f6fb1805f36~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=4AlRu6qikGKPwt62kKEJeLrJsSs%3D
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宝瓶口引水工程完成后，因流入宝瓶口的江水太少，李冰父子又率众在上游不远处修建拦河坝，他们将鹅卵石装进大竹笼，堆积在江水中央，形成一个狭长小岛，取名“鱼嘴”。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/b77af9046888427d90ebcd5e7629a532~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=FSq7csfcdCzk50OmM%2BHGzFydKrI%3D
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在古代苛刻的条件下，如果仅仅是靠人力开凿，都江堰根本不可能完成修建。不管是热胀冷缩的原理开山还是竹笼装石修坝，李冰都完美利用，做法极其精妙。在各种如此巧妙的想法下，单单外开宝瓶口，组织大量劳工也花了八年时间。都江堰是古代水利工程的奇迹，是当时的超级工程。
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世人为了纪念古代水利名家李冰父子，在都江堰岷江东岸的玉垒山麓，为李冰父子修建了祀庙，原为望帝祠，百姓所缅怀和敬仰更名为崇德庙，宋以后，李冰父子相继被敕封为王，改称为二王庙。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/3f196d070d9c4a96910a8f2d84545f0a~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=%2Fl1b3eYdXMPe2LgJZWRbB0eqyrQ%3D
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二王庙顺应山势，建筑呈现西南东北走向，为合院式布局。设计者集巧思，转换山门前序院落空间，偏置入口，形成极有特色的“山门院落”。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/c9ed4f2cc4f249c3bb7ebac2515a4f97~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=t5Dg6Q1oPI8Jk5yLdByH5lsnNOs%3D
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从正山门乐楼起，二王庙有主殿三重，配殿十六重，规模宏大。殿宇布局不受中轴线束缚，而是因地制宜，依山就势，高低错落，起伏有序。庙宇前部，有清末绘制的都江堰灌区流域图，赞颂李冰父子的匾联碑刻。中部有李冰治水六字诀“深淘滩，低作堰”石刻。后部有李冰殿和二郎殿。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/77cf8161f3a440b383d110b6d84f8f62~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=H16bUnXNnS5r60z7NP%2FW5MeyIxc%3D
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二王庙建筑群最突出的风格是庙宇完全依照自然地理环境，上下重叠交错建设，建筑上下高差达50米左右，形成庙台叠起、曲廊连环的建筑风格。从下往上看，登临一层，上面有建筑，从上往下看，殿宇重重，错落有致。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/01a388a3f36e4829a34f052153d756e5~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=p459fiZBHh60iKMefVFylOlg4D4%3D
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二王庙的入口为东西方向的长形院落，与岷江河道同一方向，是松茂古道的一部分。临江面有疏江亭、小筑三楹及照壁小舍。疏江亭损毁后修成一整面围墙，上面绘有都江堰灌区图。两边均有配殿，东边为青龙殿，西侧为白虎殿。转而再登台阶，便到三官殿、观澜亭下，游人可在此抬头仰望。台阶两侧的墙壁上镶嵌着历代治水格言。https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-6w9my0ksvp/29ef6aae0c284204be8736e7e123bcbc~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1699866047&x-signature=e0g4oRN7V7tFmQVM7SWeLj5Q8Us%3D
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自三官殿、观澜亭前向左登几十级台阶，达灵官殿前侧。灵官殿北侧有“乘势利导，因时制宜”八字。这八字既体现出修建都江堰的原理，又符合二王庙的修建原理。
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